Mexico City, home to nearly 21 million people, was built on water. A lake, to be precise—the Lago de Texcoco. For it was on an island within this lake that, in 1325 CE, an ancient prophecy of the Mexicas (the indigenous people of the Valley of Mexico) was fulfilled: the vision of an eagle eating a serpent while perched on a cactus.

For the Mexicas (who would become the rulers of the Aztec Empire), this was a sign from their god to establish a great city. Its name was Tenochtitlán and it was built on an artificial foundation—one created by dumping enormous quantities of soil into the lake. Two centuries later, the Spanish would erect a second city on the ruins of Tenochtitlán—the basis of CDMX (Ciudad de México) today.

Despite its watery origins, Mexico City feels incredibly solid and dense. From the moment you arrive, it provides an exhilarating assault on the senses—mouthwatering aromas hang heavy around the many street-side taco stalls, almost every road offers up a stunning array of architecture (Spanish colonial, Art Deco, Brutalist, and modern), and there’s a constant, dizzying soundtrack of honking cars playing in the background.

It is impossible to take in all that CDMX has to offer in one short trip (the city is a close second to Paris in terms of its number of museums). But despite its overwhelming size and sprawling nature, it’s still a city that rewards the wanderer. So this guide is built around a few diverse neighborhoods that give you a tantalizing taste of the city’s varied charms. And, of course, lots of art.

Where to stay

The neighborhoods of Condessa and Roma Norte are both good locations to base yourself in. The Hotel Villa Condesa is delightful, but there are also excellent deals to be found on Airbnb. Try searching for apartments in the Reforma 27 building—a true architectural icon that’s usefully located within walking distance to the historic district and a short taxi ride to the neighborhoods covered here.

Day One: The historic center—Zócalo and more

Start the day with a hearty Mexican breakfast at El Cardenal in the historic district (may we recommend the Gorditas Hidalguenses). From there, it’s a short, 10-minute walk to the beating heart of the city’s historic center—Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución). Marvel at the cathedral before stopping in on the National Palace, where it’s free to see Diego Rivera’s monumental mural The History of Mexico.

There’s more public art to see at the nearby Palacio des Bellas Artes—although you should be warned that José Clemente Orozco’s mural Catharsis, completed in 1934, is a pessimistic, somewhat violent take on civilization.

To get there, amble down Avenue Francisco I. Madero (off the east of the square). On the way, you’ll pass the Palacio de Iturbide (Citibanamex Culture Palace), which offers a rotating series of free exhibitions. And it’s worth stopping in on the Palacio Postal (which sits opposite the Palacio Bellas Artes)—the intricate, gilded interiors are jaw-dropping.

If you’re in need of a snack (and exploring multiple palaces can wear you out!), the Mercado de San Juan—an historic market overflowing with exotic and traditional foods—is easy to walk to and well worth a visit. It’s also a stone’s throw from the main craft market, [Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, where you can spend a good couple of hours or so browsing a colorful array of traditional Mexican handcrafts, including some wonderful textiles.

Later in the afternoon, we cannot recommend the churros and hot chocolate at El Moro highly enough (there are a number of outposts, but the original location in the Centro Historico is the one to visit—trust us). It’s like stepping back in time to the 1950s, and the freshly fried churros are to die for.

Bonus: If you’re not beat, now might be the time to take a 30-minute taxi ride to Museo Soumaya—a shimmering architectural wonder that is free to enter and houses an impressive collection of European art (including one of the world’s largest collections of Rodin). It’s located in the very upmarket area of Polanco, and visiting is a chance to experience a different side to the city (as well as indulge in some early evening window-shopping).

Day Two: Coyoacán and Frida, Frida, Frida

It’s always a treat to be able to experience an artists’ space, and at Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo, you get the homes and studios of two 20th-century icons for the price of one. Make this your first stop in a day dedicated to exploring the enchanting neighborhood of Coyoacán.

Built by Rivera and Kahlo’s friend, the architect and painter Juan O’Gorman, the site includes the two houses, joined by a drawbridge, which served as Kahlo and Rivera’s marital home(s) in the 1930s. The fiery couple needed plenty of space from each other and decided that separate living areas were the answer. This is a short- stop, with three main attractions—the simple, stunning modernist architecture; Diego’s studio (including some of his life-size sculptures and a small selection of his world-class pre-colonial artifact collection); and Frida’s bathroom—the inspiration behind one of her most famous works What the Water Has Given to Me.

Jump in a taxi for a 15-minute ride to Museo Frida Kahlo—located in the artist’s birthplace and final residence—for a richer contextual experience. Down the road, you’ll find Leon Trotsky’s one-time abode—the site of his murder with an ice pick and where his dressing gown still hangs on the hook where he left it.

Fully Frida’d (sp?) out, spend a few hours in ‘downtown’ cobblestoned Coyoacan. There are two enchanting public gardens that make up the main plaza, replete with gazebos, where street musicians play, and benches, for a pleasant afternoon of people-watching. Perhaps a cheeky tequila at Cantina La Guadalupana (a Rivera favorite) is in order? There are many restaurants and cafes to choose from for a bite to eat. And if yesterday’s market didn’t scratch the shopping itch, there’s always Mercado Coyoacán—a two-story public market (food downstairs and artisanal goods above).

Make sure to spend some time exploring Coyoacán’s charming streets—especially Calle Francisco Sosa, which includes around 60 buildings with historical monument designations. As evening approaches, grab a cocktail behind the Cathedral at La Celestina and watch this sleepy little town in the biggest city in the world come to life.

Day Three: Condesa and Roma Norte

Cafe Nin is the perfect spot for an elegant breakfast, where a guava pastry (rol de guayaba) will set you up for a morning of walking. From here you can amble through Roma Norte, heading southeast toward the Parque España.

The Parque España is the gateway to the neighborhood of La Condesa, which is chock-full of architectural charm. Your end point is the home and studio of Luis Barragán—make sure you book well in advance—but it’s worth taking a longer, circuitous route, rather than the 30-minute direct walk.

Having fully immersed yourself in the transcendent architecture of Luis Barragán, hop in a 15-minute cab ride to the much-beloved [Museo de Antropología] (https://mna.inah.gob.mx/), an endlessly surprising museum that tells rich stories of Mexico’s history. This is a vast museum (one of the largest in the world) and it’s impossible to tackle in one go, but it’s worth it for the modernist architecture and murals by artists such as Leonora Carrington alone.

The museum is situated in the sprawling Bosque de Chapultepec—an enormous park home to many more museums (including two modern art collections)—which is a pleasant arena for strolling and snacking (juice stand and street-food carts galore).

Head back to the border of La Condesa and Roma for a luxurious late-afternoon lunch at Contramar—where you can reflect on the last couple of days over mouthwatering seafood and start planning your next Mexico City sojourn.